More Adventures in Africa: Lalibela Day 2

Lalibela is perched in the mountains at an altitude of around 8000 feet. The traditional houses are two story circular stone structures. It is justifiably famous for its churches carved into the rock, below ground level and ringed by trenches and courtyards. Many are monolithic and it’s astounding to think of how the people only used hammers and chisels to cut into the rock from above and then develop each church from the foundation up in a period of 23 years.. Of course, archaeologists speculate that 40,000 people worked on these churches but locals believe that Lalibela had the help of angels and one of the churches was dug out in a day.

Lalibela was the seat of power during the Zagwe Dynasty from the 10^th century to the mid 13^th century. Laibela, the man for whom the town is named, was a brother of the incumbent king and was surrounded by bees at an early age. His mother believed this was a sign that he would become king. The king then tried to poison his younger brother who didn’t die but was cast into a deep sleep. He dreamt that he was transported to heaven and was shown a city of rock hewn churches. Fortunately, his brother, the king, dreamt that Christ wanted him to abdicate in favor of his brother. Eventually Lalibela became king, and with help from either 40,000 people or a few angels, he created the city of rock-hewn churches

Lalibela's goal was to create a second Jerusalem. He dug a river between the clusters of churches and named it the River Jordan. He named the hills Mount Sinai and Mount Tabor.

We first toured the NW cluster of churches. All six of them are carved from a single rock. Some are huge and all are impressive. Bet Medhane Alem is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world measuring 35 feet in height and covering about 7200 square feet. The building is supported by 36 pillars on the outside and 36 on the inside. The windows are shaped like various styles of crosses. Lalibela wanted to incorporate Greek, Latin and Axumite styles in addition to using Lalibela style crosses.

Another church in the complex is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This one contains some nice wall paintings and has elaborate carvings, including the Lalibela Cross and the Star of David. There was a covered pillar which reputedly is inscribed with the Ten Commandments in Greek and Ge’ez as well as inscribed with the story of how the churches were excavated and the story of the beginning and end of the world. The priests say the pillar glows and it would be too dangerous to uncover it. There were also several smaller churches in the complex. Interestingly, all of the churches have been continuously active from the time since they were carved. We encountered numerous priests and monks praying. They are packed with parishioners during services.

I was surprised to see many of the windows carved like the sun (pagan) symbols on the stelae in Axum. Our guide told us that these were the same design but instead of representing the pagan symbol of the sun, they represented a circumcised male organ. Later we saw windows which were similar but with a point at the top and were told that these were uncircumcised male organs. I’m tempted to make a further remark here but you know where I’m going with this!!

The most awe inspiring church is Bet Giyorgis, dedicated to St. George. We have seen pictures of St. George slaying the dragon in almost every church and monastery. The story is that young women were sacrificed to the dragon until St. George rode up on his horse and slayed the dragon and convinced the people to believe in God and not the dragon. He later achieved even greater fame here when the Italians were defeated on St. George’s Day.

We first saw the church from above. It’s an isolated monolith and is not covered by a protective shelter like the others. It’s 45 feet in height and is excavated below ground level in a sunken courtyard enclosed by steep walls. It is carved in the shape of a symmetrical cruciform tower. It is totally stunning from above!

The SE cluster of churches may have once been a fortress and palace. The orientation isn’t the traditional east-west and many seem heavily fortified. One of them may have been the residence of King Lalibela, although others say he lived in a tent.

Several of these churches are connected by a pitch black tunnel and it is forbidden to use flashlights there. It symbolizes being in hell or being blind.